Notice that there is quite a bit of overlap in numbers and years.The only way to try to narrow the date range of your specific instrument is to remove the neck and check the butt end of the neck heel for a production date, which may be stamped or written there (if you’re uncomfortable doing this yourself, please refer to an experienced professional guitar tech in your area). Serial numbering didn’t change immediately because instruments continued to be made using existing, tooling, parts and serial number schemes.A buyer in Europe offered me stupid money for it and I took it. I'm NOT a classical guitarist though I wrote songs on it (couch guitar), played Bossa Nova Beatles workups, etc. I can tell you that the guy who was developing the line really knew his stuff when it came to building guitars. My guess is the GAD Classicals are wonderful although competing price-wise with the used Guild market. I wrote a song on the Guild D-25 almost right after I brought it home. But then I was using the thing at a head Start class and I dropped it. I love it but the neck is too narrow, so I'm hoping to loan it out on a permanent basis to a good friend who needs a second axe. It's fun to run across different things, and I already have enough mahogany and rosewood stuff. I was going to bid on a Martin on e Bay, but the seller hasn't yet responded to my questions about it. They seem to be pretty common though, so I'll wait a bit. A buyer in Europe offered me stupid money for it and I took it.

dating guild acoustic guitars-1

This information is courtesy, republished here for your convenience. instrument production history, production dates have been applied to various components.

Hit the jump to see just how old that guitar or bass really is. Most notably, production dates have been penciled or stamped on the butt end of the heel of the neck of most guitars and basses, although there were periods when this was not consistently done (1973 to 1981, for example) or simply omitted.

But once again, due to Fender’s modular production methods and often non-sequential serial numbering (usually overlapping two to four years from the early days of Fender to the mid-1980s), dating by serial number is not always precisely definitive.

The chart below details Fender serial number schemes used from 1950 to 1964.

In particular, I'd love to try a Mark IV with the pearwood. They don't seem to be taken seriously as classicals, but they're excellent guitars and are prized by many.

According to the Guild dating chart at ended their initial run around 1970-71, and most of them had a second run from 1979 thru 1987.

Consequently, some 1990 guitars bear 1999 “N9” serial numbers. American Deluxe Series instruments use the same dating convention, but with the addition of a “D” in front of the “Z”, i.e., DZ1, DZ2, etc.

“Z”-prefix serial numbers denoting the new millennium appeared on U. As always, there is typically some number prefix overlap and carryover from year to year.

Therefore, while helpful in determining a of production dates, a neck date is obviously not a precisely definitive reference.

Most specifications for a given Fender instrument model change little (if at all) throughout the lifetime of the model.

Thanks, I have a Guild Mark I (all solid mahogany) which I bought as a kid not knowing how good a guitar it was. Sadly, Guild hasn't built the Mark series classicals for a long time.